Chevrolet Cobalt 05-10 Fuel Line Repair Kit - Complete Replacement Fuel Lines for Easy Installation | Perfect for DIY Car Maintenance & Fuel System Repairs

I watched the video showing how to replace these fuel lines on my 2008 HHR. I was on the fence whether I should replace the entire fuel lines or splice in a 'field repair' and only fix the rusted out areas. I'm so glad I replaced both fuel lines because all I see are other people redoing their job a year later.These lines are perfect. The ends are exactly what you need and the length is perfect. The lines get 5 stars for adding everything needed. I'm hopeful this stays 5 stars over time with the lines holding up over the long haul.The Job-If you watched the video with the 2 guys (1 mechanic and his high pitched voice buddy), then you'll be in for some surprises. My HHR has always been garage kept, only has 50,000 miles, and looks brand new under the car. I expected a couple hard parts, but there was a couple areas the guys in the video either skipped over or simply omitted due to not wanting to look foolish.Engine CompartmentUnhooking the lines from the engine compartment was simple. I would pull the fuse (15 amp) then get in the car to try to start. This will release the pressure on the lines. Then you can try to do what the guy shows and push the little pressure release button. I didn't remove the air filter or top of the motor housing. I had enough room next to the engine to do the job without it.Under the carThe clips holding the fuel lines and brake lines are not fun at all. I found that pretty much tearing them apart was the way to get it done. I tried the flathead in the hole the guys show, but it doesn't do the job well. Maybe if I would've had a hoist then this would've worked better, however I had the car up on jack stands and a jack. I could see there is a little clip you have to manipulate over to get the entire bracket to open. I got 1 of the many to do that. The rest I pried open to the right of the fuel lines. My entire goal was to not mess with the brake lines since I don't want to replace those. Once pried open, they came apart easily.The stupid reason this entire job has to be done is the plastic cover right where you have the leak. This is where the water gets trapped, and begins to corrode the line. My line here was almost broken already, which surprised me. I wasn't leaking that much gas. This plastic is a bear to get off as well because it is held on by the same type of clips. Interesting how the video doesn't show getting this off.The one area the guys are totally spot on is where the rusty fuel line needs to be cut to get it out of the plastic quick connect near the gas tank. I couldn't get this apart. I had read where you could squeeze the black quick connect in a certain way, but that wasn't working due to the line being too long and didn't have a lot of play. I used a pipe cutter and that took a lot of time off the job. The other area the video didn't show was releasing the quick connect on the line going to the canister. The fitting was a smaller size than the 3/8 one used at the top of the engine.InstallThis was pretty straight-forward. The only area that I would add to the video was the rusty bolts for the nuts to go on for the brackets. The nuts need a lot of force to go on initially. At first I thought the nuts were the wrong size, but they needed some force. Do NOT try to reinstall the plastic that was the problem at first. You will create the same issue down the road.OverallNot a bad install. Took me about 4 hours. Would've taken less if I would've had a pipe cutter out at first and not tried to remove the line near the tank using other means. Nice job for a father and son to work on together.Disclaimer- I am an elementary teacher, not a mechanic. I'm sure a mechanic might have different ways/tools for the job. Just showing even us regular folk can get the job done.